The key is in the name, with builder gel it is required to apply in layers and build the nail to create the desired shape and strength. It is recommended to aim for 2 layers, however, you can build as desired until you are happy with your result.
Each layer must be applied with a gel brush, at a horizontal angle, and the brush must float over the gel bead and manipulated into place slowly and gently. Do not apply like a paint, each layer must be thick enough to allow the self-levelling benefit to take place.
Each layer requires appropriate curing time and will leave a sticky residue, this is normal and helps the next layer to adhere. Each layer also requires capping to allow for shrinking as the gel cures, this means we must pull a small amount of product around the free edge as well as over the surface of the nail.
Builder gel adds strength and length to natural nails. The proper application of builder gel is vital for designing a long-lasting gel manicure. Here are some basic instructions on how to use builder gel.
- Buff the nail plate with a white block to remove any debris, oiks and shine.
- Clean the nail and apply a nail dehydrator to each nail’s surface to remove oils.
- Apply the base gel (foundation gel) and cure it under UV or LED lamp.
- Brush a builder gel bead onto the apex of the nail, down to the free edge. Tap and drag the gel to avoid gel streaking. Apply the builder gel down the nail form or tip to create and shape the long nail extension. Make sure to apply the gel only as far down as you want the nail length to be. For each layer, turn the nail upside down to allow self-levelling before curing.
- Cure the nails until dry, then remove forms if using forms and file and shape them if required.
- Wipe the inhibition layer from each nail with an IPA solution.
- Apply gel colour polish if desired and finish with a gel-compatible top coat.
- Cure the nails to complete the manicure.